Nelson & His World

I mentioned some time ago on the Information Forum that the Tall Ships Regatta was to take place in September.

We took it into our heads to go down to Cornwall to see the spectacle for ourselves and I have to say that the experience was unforgettable.

Falmouth is a lovely setting for such a gathering - the third largest natural harbour in the world, I learned, after Sydney and Rio de Janeiro - and had a delightfully festive air as it welcomed ships from all over the world, including Russia, Mexico, Poland, and - I hope this pleases you, Sylvia, the Astrid from Holland.

The weather was pretty poor for most of the week so there was concern that we would not see the ships in full sail. We were able to see some of them in harbour on a wild, wet day. The sound of the wind raging through the flags that decked the Russian ship Mir is one I will never forget. Even above the noise of the engine of our pleasure craft, the crack and snap and roar was like the sound of a raging bush fire that you hear on news reports.

The sight of the majestic procession of tall ships from the harbour to the startline of the race to Funchal was heartstopping. The most atmospheric of all was the Sedov, a Russian ship which for some reason is forbidden by the Russians to enter British, Irish or Norwegian ports. She sailed from Rotterdam to join the other ships at the gathering. She appeared, mysterious and ghostly on the horizon, and slowly took shape before our eyes. It was a day of sunshine and 'light airs' - beautiful phrase - so to see the sails of the ships filled in all their splendour against a brilliant blue sky as they made their stately way through the sun-splashed sea was indescribably beautiful. Most interesting was the reaction of the crowds on the beaches and headlands - most people, including me, sat quiet, spellbound, seemingly not quite believing what they were seeing. The sense of awe was palpable. It did not take much imagination to envisage what Nelson's fleet must have looked like two hundred years or more ago. A truly wonderful day.

Tycho,

Glad you enjoyed the Tall Ships Races at Falmouth.

It reminds me of when I was in the '82 Race from there to Lisbon, in a small schooner. We didn't win any prizes, but it was great fun to take part in, and I did a few more after that. Although there are of course prizes, the most coveted is that (in those days called the 'Cutty Sark' Trophy) which is given for the ship which shows the best spirit and comradeship. This has often gone to vessels which have given up any chance of winning a prize themselves, to go to assist another ship which is in trouble. Having said that the Races are of course carefully monitored and a warship (usually) accompanies the fleet, to which the ships have to report in every day. From this they can keep an eye on any ship - and also work out their placings. The object of these Tall Ships Races is not really about the racing, although this of course is exciting, but so that young people of all nations can join together and get to know each other.

I seem to remember at Falmouth that we looked at the land, saw the sun winking off all the cars on the headlands, and said 'I'm glad I'm not over there in all that crowd!' Very often people ashore get frustrated that the ships don't set all sail, but there are reasons for that. Very often the wind direction doesn't allow of it and it is safer, especially for the larger ships such as 'Sedov', if the start line for the Race is some distance off shore. You say that Sedov and other Russian ships are not allowed within British ports, but I remember seeing and also going board them in Newcastle in '86 and at the Portsmouth Festival of the Sea in 2001, I think it was. Have they had a new directive from above one wonders?

I have sailed on 'Astrid' twice and found her a very friendly vessel. She was under British ownership then, but was built in Holland. I found the smaller ships much more friendly, and although the large ships like Sedov are imposing, you don't tend to get to know that many people aboard, even by the end of a cruise.

Kester

Kester:

Many thanks for that personal insight into the race and the ships. We were prepared not to see much as the weather had been so awful but were delighted that the change allowed us to see the ships in full sail.

I don't know why the Sedov was prevented from entering a British port. It is not a general directive to Russian ships as Mir was in Falmouth Harbour on Wednesday. Perhaps she was already there when the directive went out? Who knows?

At 06.00 hrs this morning, Mir was slightly ahead in the race.

Tycho,

Mir's being ahead doesn't surprise me, she is known to be a fast vessel. She is one of several built to the same design and certainly appears the fastest of those.

Speed might of course be down to the captain and crew, but when its over a period of time the ship herself probably has something to do with it. The Tall Ships Youth Trust, the old Sail Training Association when I knew it, used to race their two brigs, 'Prince William' and 'Stavros Niarchos' annually and the former vessel usually won. The two vessels were to all intents and purposes were practically identical, but the 'PW' seemed to have the edge. Unfortunately the PW is now up for sail, or might have been sold by now, so we're not likely to see that spectacle again.

Strange but true, that almost identical sister ships don't sail the same. I don't know, but the same can probably be said of the Swedish Navy's 'Gladan' and 'Falken'.

Kester